Top 10 Introducing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary Replica Watches Young Professional

Jaeger-lecoultre polaris memovox-2

The overall look is surely vintage-inspired, but similar to some of those new-vintage designs for your Reverso, these sector dial models stand by themselves and the chronograph has a mass appeal that is difficult to argue with. It is 39mm wide and rocking JLC’s signature Geographic GMT disadvantage, the Master Geographic displays two time zones (along with AM/PM in the off zone). The second timezone is selected using a city disk at six and the crown at 10. If you’ve ever used this complication you will know it is a practical and easy-to-manage GMT function that borrows just enough out of a world timer to be more than your casual GMT.The dial design is much more asymmetrical (with the offset am/pm indication), but I think that is the coolest of the 3 versions. The sector dial mixes well with the complication, and I think the GMT is only the ideal functionality to get a yearlong everyday watch. Another plus with all the Geographic complication is the fact that it works equally when changing time zones for travel, or checking other time zones when linking with colleagues or friends.Those that understand JLC’s offerings understand that they have a good deal of beautifully made watches under $10,000. So, while the cost point of these sector dial variations is attractive (especially against the backdrop of SIHH), the actual success here’s the available sizing and the designs which are both beautiful and distinctive among their siblings. While I am sure that some will take umbrage with the deficiency of lume or the highly vintage-inspired hand selection, the layout works so well when seen as a whole.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just unveiled a full range of watches inspired by the Memovox Polaris E859, the 1968 diver’s alarm that is now 50 years old. One of the most valuable vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, the Polaris had a brief run with only 1714 ever made.

Now it has been has been repurposed into an entire range of watches for land and air, made up of five models from a three-hand automatic to another (yet another) remake of the original Polaris Memovox. Unifying elements across the collection include a dial with three types of surface finishing (frosted, brushed and satin); Super-Luminova applied hour markers; and short, faceted lugs.

Jaeger-lecoultre polaris memovox-2

The Polaris Automatic features a dual crown system, with one to set the time and the other to turn the inner elapsed time bezel. Available with either a black or metallic blue dial, it measures 41mm in diameter and is powered by the cal. 898/1, the same movement that powers the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic

It costs US$6,600 on a calf leather strap, US$6,900 on an alligator strap, and US$7,600 on the  stainless steel bracelet.

The biggest departure from the diver’s watch in the collection is undoubtedly the Polaris Chronograph, which is the driver’s chronograph cousin of a diving alarm. Measuring 42mm in diameter, it has a bi-compax layout with a tachymeter scale.

Jaeger-lecoultre polaris chronograph pinkgold-1-2

The movement inside is the column wheel-quipped cal. 751. Unlike the other Polaris models, it is available in both rose gold and steel.

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The stainless steel model on a calf strap is US$10,000, while on an alligator strap it’s US$10,100. And on a steel bracelet the price is $10,900, with the 18k rose gold model being US$24,500.

The most complicated piece in the collection, the Polaris Chronograph World Time, combines a chronograph and world time function. The case was expanded to 44mm to accommodate the various indicators on the dial.

jaeger-lecoultre polaris chronograph wt

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While large it is also considerably lightweight, being made of titanium and relatively slim at less than 13mm high. This is priced at US$14,500 on a calfskin strap and US$14,600 on an alligator strap.

The Polaris Date resembles the vintage alarm but isn’t one, instead it is a time-only watch with a date display at three o’clock like the original Polaris.

HyperFocal: 0

It inherits all attributes of the 1968 original including dual crowns, an inner bezel, trapezoidal indices, a railway track for the minutes, a box-type crystal as well as beige lume to mimic aged tritium. The case is the same 42mm as the vintage Polaris was, while its solid caseback features an engraving of a diver.

The Polaris Date is priced at US$7,750 on a rubber strap and US$8,700 on the stainless steel bracelet.

The 50th anniversary limited edition is the Polaris Memovox. Drawing heavily on the original but not an out and out remake, it keeps the triple crown and the triangular alarm indicator, but is a distinctly modern creation with its wide hands and chunky case. The departure from the original design is a good move, for Jaeger-LeCoultre already produced three variations of the Polaris remake in 2008.

jaeger-lecoultre polaris memovox-9038670

Like the Polaris Date, it has faux vintage lume, as well as a 42mm case that’s rated to 200m. It features the cal. 956 automatic alarm movement, which is used in all modern Jaeger-LeCoultre alarm watches. The Polaris Memovox is limited to 1,000 pieces and costs US$12,600.


Top 10 Introducing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary Replica Watches Young Professional

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 2

While the earliest incarnations of this Reverso had only one dial side, allowing the wearer to reverse the eye face crystal side-down to shield it from errant polo mallet strikes, the more modern Reverso delivers two watches in one. Flip this Tribute Calendar dial above, and we’re treated using a somewhat neater rounded time screen set against a black hobnail (or Clous de Paris) dial that’s been finished with a smart day/night index at 6:00. Not only is the next dial a starkly distinct wearing experience on the wrist, it’s also an entirely distinct complication, distinctively beneficial to the wearer because of its own way.An facet of almost any Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso that has propelled the eye to iconic status is the fact that there really is no other opinion like it. This has resulted in a perception of preponderance with a lot of critics who find that JLC and Reverso are essentially one and the same, to the negligence of some other truly incredible bits by the brand. That could be so, but I’m also of the mindset that JLC is constantly improving on the Reverso while discharging some genuinely stellar watches otherwise.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is adept with retro remakes, but they have been of the Reverso, until SIHH at the start of the year where the watchmaker unveiled a trio of watches with “sector” dials, a vintage look that’s enjoying its day in the sun right now.

The three watches are to mark the 25th anniversary of the Master Control, a line of watches that got its name from the “1000 hour” test that the watches were subject to. Perhaps a minor exaggeration, the 1000-hour testing nonetheless was a pretty big deal in the 1990s when high-end mechanical watches were still somewhat of a novelty. Now watch testing is standard, which is why the name is known simply as “Master” and perhaps also why the trio of anniversary watches are not tested to 2500 hours, but instead go further back in history for inspiration.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 2

The trio of sector dial watches are handsome, easily wearable, and they cost about 10% less than the equivalent Master models without sector dials. It’s hard not to like them.

The only quibble is philosophical: the sector dial is not historically associated with Jaeger-LeCoultre. While vintage Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Longines and other random obscure brands turn up with sector dial watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre does not. One reason for that is Jaeger-LeCoultre only came into existence in 1937, having been a joint venture between movement maker LeCoultre and Parisian watchmaker and designer Edmond Jaeger before that. And the other is that Jaeger-LeCoultre (and LeCoultre before that), mainly produced movements for other firms rather than under its own name.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date sector dial 2

Sector dials were popular in the 1930s and 1940s, getting their name from the divisions on the dial that divided it into sectors for hours, minutes and seconds. Also known as “scientific” dials since the divisions ostensibly made time measurement easier, sector dials are a favourite today, found on watches from Laurent Ferrier to Patek Philippe. Their popularity is understandable, given the appealingly functional look that is also distinctly retro.

A Breguet with sector dial circa 1935

The Jaeger-LeCoultre sector dials possess the look of vintage sector dials, albeit with some modern streamlining. Available on the time-only Master Control Date, dual time zone Master Geographic, or the Master Chronograph, the sector dials are two-tone: grained silver in the centre and outer edge, with a circular brushed chapter ring in between.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date sector dial 5

The chapter ring contains both the markers for the hours and minutes, which departs from the traditional sector dial design that separates the two tracks. That might not suffice for traditionalists, but will satisfy anyone who wants the feel of a sector dial.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date sector dial 1

Also modern in feel is the printing on the dial is also in two colours, black for most of it with highlights in medium blue.

And the hands are syringe-shaped and skeletonised, another element from the 1930s and 1940s (and also found on the retro Patek Philippe ref. 5320G). The length of the hour hand (on all three models) is not quite long enough to pass the base of the hour marker, another element that differs from a vintage sector dial.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 4

Being entirely printed, the sector dials are far simpler in construction than the conventional Master series dials that has applied hour markers, Super-Luminova, and frames for the date windows. This goes some way to explaining the lower cost compared to the ordinary Master watches.

The time-only Master Control Date is arguably the easiest to like. It’s the most straightforward and functional looking, as well as having the smallest price tag.

The 39mm steel case is thin at 8.5mm high and easily wearable, cutting an elegant profile on the wrist. It’s finished simply with a mirror-polish on the top and brushing on the sides.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date sector dial 4

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date sector dial 6

The date window is definitely not traditional, but it’s practical and also a fixture on most modern watches so is inescapable. And here the date sits quite well with the dial.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date sector dial 3

Inside is the cal. 899/1, the basic automatic movement made by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Having evolved from a movement designed in the 1970s, the 899 is compact but suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. Nonetheless it’s a well-engineered movement that’s been attractively dressed up with blued screws, a gilded rotor and assorted decoration.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 8

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 9

Up close some elements give it away as a mid-range movement, including the mechanically applied finishing and wire springs, but it looks good through the display back and more importantly, is good quality for the price.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 10

The appeal of the Master Chronograph is similar to the time-only model, being a well-priced and modestly sized watch. But it has a more modern feel, mainly due to the more numerous blue elements on the dial, as well as the large sub-dials.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph sector dial 3

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Here the lack of separation between the hour and minute tracks leaves the dial feeling a little cluttered, especially with the tachymeter on the outermost scale.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph sector dial 2

The cal. 751G inside is hidden beneath a solid case back, but it’s typical of Jaeger-LeCoultre movements – well constructed, compact and to the point.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph sector dial 4

Jaeger-LeCoultre chronograph cal. 751G

The cal. 751G has all the features expected of a modern chronograph movement in this price range, namely a column wheel and vertical clutch. It also has extras of a free-sprung balance and longish 65-hour power reserve. In fact, its construction is similar enough to the chronograph movements from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s sister brands (like Panerai, Montblanc and Cartier), that is is hard to not to conclude that Jaeger-LeCoultre helped out.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph sector dial 1

Notably, the sector dial Master Chronograph is a condensed version of the classic Master Chronograph, lacking the date and constant seconds at six o’clock, which helps account for the US$1000 difference in price.

The Master Geographic is the priciest of the three, having the most complicated movement. But like the chronograph it has been simplified, having only the second time zone, day and night display, and cities disc. The date and power reserve indicator found on the full spec model are absent, hence the price being US$1400 lower for the sector dial model.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 5

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 1

The sub-dial at six o’clock indicates the second time zone, with the cities disc below to switch the second time zone display.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 6

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 7

Functionally it’s intuitive, with the crown at 10 o’clock to deal with the second time zone.

The back reveals the movement, which is typical of Jaeger-LeCoultre movements, having the same style as the cal. 899 inside the Master Date. It is automatic with a 43-hour power reserve.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic sector dial 3

Price and availability 

The Master Control Date (ref. 1548530) costs US$5700 or S$8800.

The Master Chronograph (ref. 1538530) is priced at US$8000 or S$12,400.

And the Master Geographic (ref. 1428530) retails for US$9400, or S$14,600.

All three are priced at about 10% less than comparable Master Control watches of the earlier generation. None are numbered limited editions, but are “limited production”. They will be available at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques and retailers starting June 2017.


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