If you are searching in the $5,000 to $10,000 range and are searching for an everyday watch from a great brand with a distinctive yet vintage allure, any one of these three will fit the bill. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date will retail for a cost of $5,700 USD, with all the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph selling for $8,000, and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic claiming $9400. Slim pickings or not, these sector dial Master versions from JLC were readily some of my favorite new models exhibited at SIHH and will probably end up being very popular in the approaching months.One of the aesthetically striking watches of SIHH 2017 was the first “universal time tourbillon” by Swiss Jaeger-LeCoultre, and it’s predictably daring and indeed very expensive. Before this SIHH 2017 watch trade show, we surfaced the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Tourbillon watch here. Our David clarified how this “top-of-the-line” Geophysic built on the contemporary retro-inspired group of watches that will be, in turn, dependent on a variety of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches in the 1950s. Unlike the standard group of Geophysic watches with their “true second” (dead-beat) ticking seconds hands, the 2017 Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Tourbillon combines a world-time complication with an “orbital” flying tourbillon – in a somewhat visually stunning manner.While that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Tourbillon watch is neat-looking in pictures, you have to see this watch at operation to appreciate it. First, there is the ritzy solid-platinum situation that’s 43.5mm wide. It’s comfortable on the wrist and also clearly more eye-catching than most of the rest of the Geophysic collection – particularly the three-hand versions. Of course, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Tourbillon builds on the standard Geophysic Universal Time (hands-on here) which is a clever combination of an eye nerd-themed, in-house-made automatic movement with the “true second” ticking seconds hand and the world-time indicator.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has unveiled a deep blue iteration of its Geophysic True Second that will be sold exclusively on the brand’s website, just one of many online ventures amongst Richemont’s stable of brands, which also includes IWC, Cartier and Yoox Net-a-Porter. The latest model is a variant of the 2015 deadbeat seconds wristwatch, itself based the original Geophysic launched in 1958 to commemorate the International Geophysical Year.
While the ordinary version has a plain silver dial, the limited edition is fitted with a striking blue dial finished with sunburst brushing. Another distinguishing feature is the “crosshairs” in the middle, derived from the dial design of the vintage original. Ironically, the crosshairs are executed as a pair of thicker bars that are wider than the seconds hand and script, resulting in a crowded dial centre.
As with the stock model, the blue Geophysic has a date display at three o’clock, baton hour markers, pencil-shaped hands and lumed dots applied on the flange while the caseback reveals the in-house calibre with a pink gold skeletonised rotor.
Dial colour side, the Geophysic True Second Limited Edition is otherwise identical to the regular production model. Inside is the same self-winding cal. 770 that’s equipped with JLC’s proprietary Gyrolab balance wheel that’s shaped like the brand’s logo and designed for high efficiency as well as easy regulation.
The signature feature is the deadbeat seconds, for which a secondary spring was added near the axis of the second hand. The spring reloads once every second, powering the jump of the seconds hand. This ensures that the extra energy required for the jump doesn’t sap the energy needed to power the oscillator, leaving the amplitude of the balance unaffected. It also has a quick-set hour hand that can be advanced in one hour intervals without affecting the minute or second hands, making it easy to swap time zones when travelling.
The steel case is 39.6mm wide and and 11.81mm high, giving it a compact but sporty profile.
Price and Availability
Available only on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s website – though the watch can be collected at any of the brand’s boutiques – the Geophysic True Second Limited Edition (ref. 8018480) is limited to 100 pieces and is priced at US$9900.