As we already begin awaiting 2018’s SIHH novelties, we thought it high time to take a better look at some of the season’s favorites, which include the richly over-the-top 15202, left for the very first time as a contemporary, non-limited reference completely in 18-carat yellow gold. It’s not merely the all-gold case that lends the 15202 significance though — there are a couple additional (albeit more subtle) visual cues that set this particular reference aside, and may make it even more desirable for collectors in the long run. Perhaps most obvious, is the simple time and date-only dial setup, done from the ‘AP’ emblem at 6:00, which pays direct homage to the initial steel 5402 published in 1972. This aesthetic also tips its hat towards the yellowish gold 5402BA Jumbo introduced five decades later — the first time Audemars Piguet rendered the Jumbo in this precious metal.However, more notable is that the thickness — the new 15202 measures a hair over 8mm, 0.2mm thicker than the first 5402, and the closest we’ve seen to people pioneering ultra-thin measurements since the 40th Anniversary variations from 2012 — thus the ‘Extra Thin’ naming convention. This new-but-really-old profile, coupled with the eminently wearable 39mm case size truly feels just like the sweet place for the Royal Oak, and has much to do with why this iconic design managed to become this kind of future-proof classic in the first place.The Jumbo Royal Oak in its classic arrangement is a watch that historically, by all dimensions, should wear tremendously thin. However, this new reference is one which still manages to jump off the wrist, as a result of its solid yellow gold case, and light-gobbling “Petite Tapisserie” tonal champagne colored waffle dial. Those searching for a marginally more toned-down aesthetic nevertheless rendered within this metal will appreciate the second of those 15202’s two new dial variants: a stunning blue, and this, given the spate of blue-on-bronze sports watches we have seen this year, is as much on-trend, since it’s slightly less ostentatious.
While ceramic has been a favourite material at Audemars Piguet Watches Sale Replica for the Royal Oak, it has not been used for a watch bracelet, until now. Just announced at SIHH 2017, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is ceramic from end to end, with the case, bezel and every link of the bracelet in black ceramic.
The case is 41mm in diameter, just like the standard model, but the finishing of the case and bracelet takes significantly more time than for the steel or gold equivalent. While a steel model takes some six hours to machine, polish and put together, the ceramic version takes 30 hours.
To match the ceramic case, the dial is a dark grey with black sub-dials, decorated with the chequerboard grande tapisserie guilloche that’s synonymous with the Royal Oak.
Historically an important complication for Audemars Piguet, the ceramic perpetual calendar is powered by the calibre 5134, a movement based on the extra-thin calibre 2120/2121 found in the original Royal Oak of 1972.
In fact, the calibre 5134 is evolved from the calibre 2120/2802, the movement used for the 39mm Royal Oak perpetual calendar that was in production for some 30 years. The key difference in the new calibre being the addition of a 52 week indicator.
Price and availability
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black ceramic (ref. 26579CE.OO.1225CE.01) is priced at SFr85,000. It should be available in the second half of 2017.